CALVINLUO likes to spin temporal references. His collections have explored the sub-cultures of ‘50s-era Americana, the dazzling ‘70s, a “Virgin Suicides”-tainted ‘90s suburban America, women spies of the Second World War, and most recently, for the first show in the city of lights, an ode to Paris which spanned from the ‘40s to the ‘90s. From these time vignettes always emerges a strong and focused story, which has helped to position himself in the foreground of a global fashion scene.
Calvin Luo is also the founder of Rouge Fashion Book, China’s first independent fashion and art magazine.
Reflecting on our own corollary to global events, Calvin Luo was drawn to the empathetic work of Robert Motherwell. While Moterwell’s story is mainly a black and white one, Luo was particularly struck by the way color punctuates the series. It is in this punctuation of color that Calvin saw a glimpse of hope. It was this moment that solidified Calvin to regard fashion as a medium for social development and change; to deliver a story in the now, all while dreaming of better days.
The CALVINLUO Spring/Summer 2021 collection is mainly an empathetic black and white story, accentuated with details and color. Like hope piercing through the monotony, childish optimism battling bitterness, innocence overtaking the harsh reality to an awakening.
This collection is severe for Calvin - angular silhouettes with black and white contrasts echo Motherwell’s rigidity. But pleats, flounces, gradient patches and floral embroidery all make Luo’s story a hopeful one; one that longs for the return of childlike notions, innocence and naivety.