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Calvin Luo founded his eponymous label CALVINLUO in 2014 following a two-year study at Parsons in New York City. The Shanghai-based label debuted on schedule at New York Fashion Week for SS'18 and Paris Fashion Week for SS’20.

Luo likes to put a spin on a temporal reference. His collections have explored the subcultures of ‘50s-era Americana, the dazzling ‘70s, a “Virgin Suicides” tainted ‘90s suburban America and New York city at the turn of the ‘90s. From these time vignettes always emerges a strong and focused story, which has helped to position himself in the foreground of a global fashion scene.

Calvin Luo is also the founder of Rouge Fashion Book, China’s first independent fashion and art magazine.
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“I think a fashion photograph is almost a social document that will take you back. The older it gets, the more interesting it is. It shows you how people lived. In my pictures, anyway.” 
 
Helmut Newton 
 
 
Calvin Luo dived into the works of Helmut Newton to conceptualize his Fall/Winter 2022 Womenswear and Menswear Collection.  
 
“Le Smoking”, one of the photographer’s most emblematic image, was taken in a dusty Parisian alleyway (rue Aubriot) in pure elegant simplicity that remains the epitome of chic to this day. It is documented that Newton asked Vikebe Knudsen (the model) to incarnate a familiar figure in 19th century French art: the dandy, who “has no profession other than elegance”, according to Beaudelaire. Le Smoking would not only mark a shift in fashion, but in power. In the words of Pierre Bergé “It is a well-known fact that Chanel gave women their freedom; years later Saint Laurent brought them power.” 
 
Calvin asked himself what the same elegance and power would look like today. With his collection film titled “LE NOIR”, Calvin plumbs into “Le Smoking” almost half a century later and pays homage to Paris (again) whose iconic beauty has remained unchanged by the passing of time. 
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With a mainly black, white, and grey collection, CALVINLUO keeps faith with the emblematic image but introduces timely details that anchor his vision in modernity: Crisp and deconstructed tailoring, asymmetric construction patterns, his now signature significant metalware. And while le smoking (the tux) is not a groundbreaker nowadays, Calvin’s supplemental choices convey Newton’s rule breaking attitude: Gender fluid sport tanks, denim, masculine belts. His styling choices render his vision into the present: butterfly punk jewelry (a nod to the CALVINLUO SS22 collection), black lipstick, e-cigarettes, and a purposeful choice to pair the entire collection with a new signature high and lop top square toe sneaker. 

Calvin’s love for Paris is no secret - tributes and homages are recurrent in his work - but this collection hits different. This is now the 5th season CALVINLUO shows digitally. His film “LE NOIR” transports the collection to a fabled Paris; wishful thinking that next season he will be back in person. 
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