01 X X 02 03 X 04 X 05 X 06 X 07 X 08 X 09 X 10 X 11 X 12 X 13 X 14 X 15 X 16 X 17 X 18 X 19 X 20 X 21 X 22 X 23 X X 24 X 25 X 26 X 27 X 28 X 29 X 30 X 31 X 32 X 33 Calvin Luo founded his eponymous label CALVINLUO in 2014 following a two-year study at Parsons in New York City. The Shanghai-based label debuted on schedule at New York Fashion Week for SS'18 and Paris Fashion Week for SS’20. SS’22 marks the label’s fifth consecutive season in Paris.

Luo likes to put a spin on a temporal reference. His collections have explored the subcultures of ‘50s-era Americana, the dazzling ‘70s, a “Virgin Suicides” tainted ‘90s suburban America, New York city at the turn of the ‘90s and Paris throughout the 20th Century. From these time vignettes always emerges a strong and focused story, which has helped to position himself in the foreground of a global fashion scene.

The past year has led Calvin to turn his attention to the future with introspective collections amplifying the voices of the strong women who inspire him.

Calvin Luo is also the founder of Rouge Fashion Book, China’s first independent fashion and art magazine.
Spring/Summer 2023 Collection
"Creating things out of things"

"I'm trying to change the way we interpret things, the way we're accustomed to when 'reading' information", notes Alicja Kwade, a Polish-German contemporary visual artist, whose artistic creation always starts with things that do exist.

Kwade manipulates common materials to explore the ephemeral in the physical world. Her works often include reflection, repetition, and inaccurate doubling to create immersive and experiential spaces that challenge viewers to question their perception of reality. Ordinary household items are often given a rebirth through narration and personification in Kwade’s sculptures and installations. Subtly, environment and space are created for objects to have silent conversations, meanwhile onlookers are encouraged to rethink, beyond objects’ functionality, how ordinary and extraordinary should be demarcated.

Inspired by Alicja Kwade’s interpretations, Calvin scrutinizes a priori fashion codes and riffs on the idea of “creating things out of things” for its CALVINLUO Spring/Summer 2023 collection:

Familiar and new

Calvin places the iconic CALVINLUO square metal lock hardware next to novel globular, science fiction inspired, metal buttons. Adorning cardigans, blazers and quilted leather jackets, or independently in the form of belts and collars, the new glittering, ball shaped buttons add a futuristic and surreal touch to CALVINLUO’s classics.

Classic and novel

Blazers with sharp lines meld with new tailoring and proportions, fusing lines of sportswear and high street wear to present a pioneering silhouette; pseudo two-piece blazer features unique cut exterior and fitted waist interior; cropped classic blazer enjoys paneled design of a short baseball jersey; street-style utility miniskirts and patch pocket low-waisted pants are paired with classic cropped blazers; leather shoes and sneakers are deconstructed and recombined - classic designs with novel surprises.
Solid and colorful

Knitted cardigans, camisoles, turtlenecks and tweed coats return with a fresh, vibrant, and delectable looks in a multitude of solid color, being transformed from supporting role to visual protagonist.

Minimalist and maximalist

The simple tweed color block jackets and coats are decorated with antique buttons on the collar, waist and pockets, giving them a vintage and sophisticated look; the simple solid shirts are embellished with mesh beading on the chest, adding a touch of fun; the minimal shoulder bag, sporting the signature CALVINLUO metal square clasp, provides a sense of order to the maximal candy-colored accessories. Minimalism and maximalism are never complete opposites, but rather a set of aesthetic orientations that transform each other in terms of creativity.

In an echo of Alicja Kwade’s philosophy, Calvin Luo displays mastery of materials, objects, and the concept of recombination; a new perspective of appreciating and wearing fashionable clothes through the combination of colors, textures, structures, and function. The CALVINLUO Spring/Summer 2023 Collection exhibits new ways of “creating things out of things”. A wander through the reflection of exemplar fashion codes.