At the design level this translates into a sublimation of protest inspired gear, elevating the concept of protective and functional clothing and inserting codes for love and compassion through color and softness, balancing the underlying anger.
Military references are seen in napoleonic inspired epaulettes, sharp tailoring in vests and coats, that feature brushed wools and render the typical Robert Geller worn in, aged, romantic look.
They are often complemented with historic military embroideries. A garment dyed deep red nylon bomber jacket has a shrunken look and is fastened together via a hook-and-eye metal ornament, that also appears on the more tailored jackets.
There is a camouflage theme that winds itself through the collection like a red thread: prominent pieces include a double breasted waxed cotton coat that comes in a grey and purple camouflage print, as well as in a more toned down, solid, olive green version. Camo boucle cashmere sweaters and pants are paired together and hint at a certain preparedness to march in cold weather, ultra protective outerwear is layered with hot pink and yellow neoprene face masks, scuba hoods and gloves.
This season’s collaboration with Common Project features a “combat-sneaker” that comes in black, brown, and burgundy as well as a trekking shoe in charcoal and navy..
AW17 also marks the 10 year anniversary of the Robert Geller Brand, for the occasion we called in the archive pieces from near and far to shoot them in the spirit of each of the 20 collections.
“ 10 years. One quarter of my life. My life’s biggest work and it seems to have flown by. New inspirations, new challenges, new goals and new achievements. It has been a journey and worth every step. I am incredibly lucky to create for a living. To turn ideas into something that has a life. Something that accompanies my fellow humans for many years of their lives. Their first loves, their last loves. Their successes and their tragedies. Clothes that feel like home. I just feel lucky and grateful. I always wanted to create clothes that mean something. That can connect with people and mean something to them. Give them confidence. Feel comfort. Make a positive impact on their lives. What could be greater than that?”